Headliner
KYU
Reversing a trend, a Miami restaurant is opening in New York. Since 2016, KYU (pronounced “cue”), in the Wynwood neighborhood of Miami, has been a destination, offering an eclectic, strongly Asian-leaning menu of often wood-fired specialties served in a high-decibel industrial setting. Appetites are vigorously satisfied; creature comforts less so. In New York, there are touches of luxury in the generous space that housed Bobby Flay’s Gato, with dramatic lighting and a glittering sweep of brass mesh to set off the lounge area. Alan Omsky and Jordan Sayfie, the founders, have joined with an English hospitality company, Reuben Brothers, for this expansion of the brand. (There’s already an offshoot in Mexico City, and other locations are in the pipeline.) Its signature is Japanese yakiniku grilling, which will be handled in an open kitchen with a chef’s table by Chris Arellanes, who worked at Per Se and Eleven Madison Park. Smoked Wagyu brisket, whole roasted cauliflower, six-hour smoked short ribs and a towering coconut cake are coming to New York, along with a newly conceived wood-fired bass with fermented brussels sprouts and dashi, and charred sunchokes with Parmesan cream and togarashi lime. The restaurant’s Miami cocktails, like the Wynwood Mule made with house-smoked pineapple, and the spicy shiso sour fueled with Thai chile tincture, are also traveling north. (Opens Wednesday)
324 Lafayette Street (Houston Street), 929-448-5188, kyurestaurants.com.
Opening
Mollusca
One quirky corner building in the heart of the meatpacking district has housed many dining venues. The latest is this survey of ways to dress a mussel. Everyday marinière? Perhaps not when cacio e pepe, condensed milk with wasabi, and peanut butter are some of the options. There are raw bar selections with crudos and ceviches front and center, hand roll concoctions, soups like Brazilian moqueca, a raviolo with egg yolk and caviar, creamy spinach risotto, and a Wagyu filet in cacio e pepe sauce served with a lobster tail in bisque. The Italian touches are frequent. (The executive chef, Gianmaria Sapia, is from Savona, Italy.) Handblown glass lights casting wavy impressions on mirrored walls convey a deep sea atmosphere. (Wednesday)
1 Little West 12th Street (Hudson Street), 212-970-1818, molluscanyc.com.
Locanda Borboni
After some enterprising ventures in Latin America, Maurizio DeRosa, a former partner in Sushi Nakazawa, is back in New York with this ode to Southern Italy that taps the region’s aristocratic traditions. In addition to some familiar specialties like meatballs and arancini, there is an alluring collection of stuffed, gratinéed and simmered vegetables and timbales. Pasta dishes veer from the expected, tossed with the likes of swordfish and fried eggplant. The wine list features Southern Italy often with bottlings of native grapes. (Friday)
284 Grand Street (Roebling Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 845-614-3413, locandaborboni.com.
Xolo and Bar Milagro
In a sleek space with views of the Williamsburg Bridge, the restaurant Xolo serves an all-day menu of tamales, tacos, chicharrónes, meatballs al pastor, pollo asado, chiles rellenos and cod steamed in a banana leaf. Beneath Xolo is the bar, with 2,000 good-luck charms, or milagros, hung from the ceiling. Along with Mexican-themed drinks, small plates of tuna tostadas, quesadillas and guacamole are available. (Wednesday)
29 Dunham Place (South Sixth Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 929-298-0032, xolobk.com.
Marlow Bistro
This Mediterranean restaurant has reopened after a pandemic sabbatical, during which it donated meals through organizations like Rethink Food and City Harvest. Now, it has a new flower-bedecked look and a new chef, Alexander Gallegos. His spring menu features salt-cured fluke; scallops with stinging nettles and morels; ramp agnolotti done carbonara-style; salmon with asparagus; and beef tenderloin with artichokes, sun-dried tomato pesto and green olives. There’s attractive sidewalk seating.
1018 Amsterdam Avenue (Cathedral Parkway), 212-662-9020, marlowbistro.com.
Essex Pearl
The chef Daniel Le, who worked at the Tyger and Hanoi House, has opened this Southeast Asian spot in the Essex Market’s Market Line area. Cambodian grilled pork jowl, crispy baby octopus, and garlic noodles are some highlights.
Essex Market (Market Line), Lower Level, 88 Essex Street (Delancey Street), 347-899-4998, essexpearl.com.
Martiny’s
Takuma Watanabe, who was at the now-closed Angel’s Share, has opened this bar in a carriage house. The name is not just a play on the classic cocktail, but also summons a sculptor, Philip Martiny (1858-1927), whose studio was in the space. Mr. Watanabe’s cocktails, like the Dirty Tonic with vodka, olive oil, spices and tonic, and the Royal Horse’s Neck with Cognac, Champagne, ginger ale, orange, lemon and egg, are divided, like a food menu, into appetizers, dessert and so forth; all bear main-course prices, from $21 to $31. (Thursday)
121 East 17th Street, 917-472-7393.
Looking Ahead
Noma
René Redzepi will bring a taste of his much-lauded Copenhagen restaurant to Brooklyn next month, from May 16 to 20. A former foundry from 1912 will be decorated to suggest the restaurant’s original industrial vibe. A multicourse tasting menu, $700 plus tax, will be served to 50 diners nightly. Mr. Redzepi and some of his staff will be on hand each night. American Express Platinum and Resy have collaborated on this roadshow, which is open to those enrolled in Global Dining Access by Resy or who hold U.S. American Express Platinum, Centurion, Delta SkyMiles Reserve and Hilton Honors American Express Aspire cards. Reservations are available starting at noon on April 27.
26 Bridge Street (John Street), Dumbo, Brooklyn, resy.com/noma-new-york.
Le Gratin
On May 6, Daniel Boulud will open this Lyonnaise bistro in what was Keith McNally’s Augustine, a French restaurant in the Beekman Hotel near City Hall that closed at the start of the pandemic. The name evokes the Lyonnaise cooking of Mr. Boulud’s youth, in his mother’s kitchen, and in the restaurants and bistros like the bouchons Lyonnais of that food-centric city. He’s calling the restaurant informal, rustic even, and plans to serve baked gratins, both sweet and savory, on an à la carte menu, and to showcase a special dish monthly. The executive chef will be Guillaume Ginther, who worked at Restaurant Daniel and Le Coq Rico in New York. The wines of Southern Burgundy, Beaujolais and the Northern Rhône will be featured, along with cocktails like a Kir Communard, made with red wine. As for the lovely vintage décor, Mr. Boulud said he likes Mr. McNally’s setting. “I’m not doing much; I want to keep the charm of the place,” he said.
5 Beekman Street (Nassau Street), 212-597-9020, legratinnyc.com.
Michelin
Michelin will reveal its full Washington, D.C.-area ratings on May 4. In the meantime, the newcomers to the selection have been announced. They are Ala, Apéro, Bar Chinois, Daru, dLeña, El Secreto de Rosita, Georgia Brown’s, Honeymoon Chicken L’Ardente, La Bise, Maïz64, Menya Hosaki, Michele’s, Philotimo, The Setting and Tonari.
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